The Chicken on the Hill
W&L Law News
January 24, 2005
Volume 32
Section: Entertaininment
Column: Leagal Seasoning
By Meghan Smith, 3L

Sometimes, there’s a little voice inside my head that urges me to forget about any pretensions I have about eating healthy. It encourages me to go get some fried chicken. Right before break, I heard a tale of a mythical fried chicken restaurant somewhere in Lexington that I’d never heard of. I was shocked – shocked! – that I hadn’t heard of this place before. I began to drool thinking about herbs, spices and breading. But would it live up to its reputation of greasy goodness? My friends, Kenney’s is everything a chicken joint should be.

The first time I set my eyes on the place, I was in love. Kenney’s looks like a converted something, I’m just not sure what. The avocado green décor belies the fact that it clearly hasn’t been renovated in a while. No matter. You don’t go to Kenney’s for the view, you go for the chicken.


After one bite of the fried chicken, I realized something about the other fried chicken place in town – while it tastes like some kind of poultry, it doesn’t taste like chicken. Kenney’s fried chicken tastes like chicken, like the best kind of broiled chicken my mom made while I was growing up. You can really taste the love and care that has been put into preparing it. As with any good fried chicken, the meat is incredibly tender and moist.

For less than $5.00 you can get a breast, wing, thigh, two sides, two fried biscuits, and honey. Yes, I said fried biscuits. If you’ve never had them before, you must indulge in them before you leave Lexington. Fried biscuits are exactly what they sound like – biscuit dough that has been deep-fried. Topped with honey, they’re almost better than a doughnut when they’re fresh. The other sides, unfortunately, are not as consistent as the chicken. While the coleslaw has a nice sweetness to it, the mashed potatoes and gravy have a slightly metallic tang. The fries are nothing special either – they’re the crinkle-cut ones you may remember from elementary school.

On a brighter note, Dan Simmons, 3L, commented that his chocolate milk shake, “might be the best one in Lexington.” It was thick, rich and oh-so chocolaty.

While Kenney’s chicken borders on the sublime, sadly, I cannot say the same thing for its breakfast. A word of warning – do not drink the coffee. I’m not exactly sure what it tasted like, but it didn’t taste like coffee. Fried biscuits are not served for breakfast, which is probably a good thing because a fried biscuit with a sausage is enough to give anyone a heart attack. Alas, both the biscuit and the sausage on my sandwich were burned. The pancakes, however, were a bright spot on my otherwise dismal breakfast. They were large and a little chewy – just the way I like them.

If you eat chicken or have ever thought about eating chicken, go to Kenney’s. Maybe it’ll become the fried chicken of your dreams, too

Copyright © January 24, 2005

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