Update: Burgers Fine at Biff's; Buns Baffle
Express-News, December 18, 2003
San Antonio, TX
By John Griffin, Express-News Dining Editor

Biff Buzby's Burgers is tucked so far in the elbow of a strip mall that it has no real curb appeal. In fact, when driving on Toepperwein Road, you can't see it at all. Only a small sign by the drive points the way to an old-fashioned burger like my dad used to grill.

Well-done beef patties with just enough juiciness to keep them moist and heaped high with the likes of jalapeņos, avocado or bacon are a real treat, whether you're building your own or ordering one of the specialties, which include the Smo (provolone cheese and grilled onions and mushrooms) or the Q (bacon, Cheddar, grilled onions and barbecue sauce).

The bun that burger sits on is another matter. I actually think that in a world where foods are becoming increasingly sweeter by the day, the majority of people will cotton to the sugary bun. Not me. I find sugar in any form, ketchup included, upsets the balance of the burger by distracting too much from beef. So, as much as I like Biff Buzby's burger, I generally take one bite of that bun and finish the burger off with knife and fork. (There is also a jalapeņo-Cheddar bun, for an additional 25 cents, but it was too dry on a recent visit, as if it had not been made that day. It has been better before.)

Biff Buzby's goes beyond burgers to include grilled hot dogs and an array of sandwiches that stretch from chicken-fried steak to an Italian Turkey Sub.

But who needs a bun when the breading on the fried dill pickles is so good? Everything about these pickle chips is worth investigating, right down to the comforting cup of ranch dressing to dip them in. Biff Buzby's also has great steak fries, thick and hot to the touch, as well as fried corn on the cob and beer-battered mushrooms.

Fried corn on the cob may sound odd to some folks, but it is not as strange as the slippery tactile nature of the buffalo strips, or chicken tenders soaked in hot sauce. Chicken breast meat is not as firm as a tiny wing on a bone, and picking up a flaccid piece of meat proves a little too slick to be enjoyable. The same treatment works much better on the Buffalo Chicken Sandwich, when the bun is added to the equation.

According to legend - the legend on the menu, at least - Biff Buzby might have been a World War I pilot or the man with whom Amelia Earhart disappeared. Customers' thoughts on the true nature of the pilot depicted in the restaurant's logo are posted in the brightly colored dining area. It's a nice touch; it makes folks feel they're a part of the place and builds on the appeal of the burger to make you want to return.

Biff Buzby's Burgers
12702 Toepperwein Rd
(Oak Grove Shopping Center)
San Antonio, TX 78233
(210) 590-2040

Lunch/Dinner: Mon.-Sat.
Cash & Credit: Most major
Attire: Casual

Copyright Express-News. Dec 18, 2003

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